ROBERT SEBASTIAN GRYNKOFKI: ENGINEERING MEN'S JEWELLERY
Armed with a penchant for detail and an affinity for engineering from his days as an industrial designer, co-founder and product director Robert Sebastian Grynkofki has played an integral role in building the foundations for SARAH & SEBASTIAN to thrive. From humble beginnings, he has propelled the brand forward to global success, alongside creative director Sarah Munro, with persistence for technical excellence, innovation and a deep appreciation for the craft.
To coincide with the launch of SARAH & SEBASTIAN’s new men’s collection, TRACTION, we sat down with Robert to talk engineering influences, a considered approach to men’s jewellery with a play on duality, and how he has reimagined traditional pearl jewellery for the modern man.
Tell us about your role as the co-founder of SARAH & SEBASTIAN – which aspects of the business do you focus on and how does this inform each collection?
ROBERT SEBASTIAN GRYNKOFKI: While my role has evolved over the years, I have always been passionate about the technical aspects of each collection, streamlining and improving production, and the financial side of the business. I focus my time and energy on innovative technologies, materials and the engineering of components for our jewellery pieces. I am also very passionate about sustainable practices and I’m constantly looking at how to improve our conscious processes across the business.
How does your background in industrial design inform your approach to jewellery design and materials?
RSG: It is an invaluable extension of my toolkit. While I was studying jewellery design, I loved the craftsmanship aspect of making jewellery but at the time, I wasn’t happy with my designs and the end result. I went on to pursue industrial design and this foundation gave me a much deeper understanding of how to properly construct, execute and evaluate high-calibre form and function. This also gave me the space to master CAD design, which remains a huge part of my day-to-day practice today.
“My background in industrial design] is an invaluable extension of my toolkit…this foundation gave me a much deeper understanding of how to properly construct, execute and evaluate high-calibre form and function.”
The Metallurgy collection was SARAH & SEBASTIAN’s first foray into men’s jewellery back in 2021 – how has your approach to men’s jewellery evolved since then?
RSG: While that collection was a very enjoyable and explorative experience, our current approach to designing for men has evolved considerably. With Metallurgy, our aim was to speak to a broader audience, hence it took on the label of a unisex collection.
For our new men’s collection, TRACTION, I poured my energy into developing and refining the concept in depth and finessing each detail with precision. Designed specifically for men, it’s a reflection of my personal style; understated and high in quality, with a focus on interesting and unexpected details.
What was the starting point for Traction? How is your passion for automotive engineering reflected throughout the designs?
RSG: I am very passionate about engineering, so the concept of machined precision and considered detailing were natural starting points to set the tone of the entire collection. We started with a focus group, looking at trends and style preferences within our team. We then built out different design stories that played on the dualities of grit and vulnerability.
The Traction story echoes tactile details of tire treads with unexpected diamond elements; Piston channels the perpetual motion of automotive engines whilst embracing the restrained aesthetic of freshwater pearls; Cord explores utility equipment and hardware contrasted with diamonds. The Chase story, drawing on voids and cut-out silhouettes, expands on the Chase Ring, a piece I made for myself years ago, which remains my daily staple.
“TRACTION is a reflection of my personal style; understated and high in quality, with a focus on interesting and unexpected details…I poured my energy into developing and refining the concept in depth and finessing each detail with precision.”
Diamonds and pearls have long been associated with women’s jewellery and remain unconventional choices for men to this day. Can you tell us a bit more about the choices of materiality throughout the collection and why you have embraced diamonds and pearls?
RSG: To be completely honest, pearls were not my first choice. However, after delving into it, we discovered that pearl necklaces and earrings are surging in popularity amongst men and the traditional perception of this gem being strictly suitable for women is starting to fade.
My initial response was “I would never wear that”. My second thought was, “what could I do to make it work for me?” The result is the Pearl Piston Chain, one of my favourite pieces from the collection and a reflection of what I appreciate in design and engineering. I like the play on masculinity and fragility, the pearl detail revealing itself on closer inspection, set within a solid, bold chain.
Last year, I designed a pinkie ring with a 3-carat champagne argyle diamond for myself to celebrate becoming a godfather to my best friend’s children in Germany. I believe when done well, there is no reason for men not to have the opportunity to have that same bespoke experience where they can create a unique fine jewellery piece for themselves.
“The Pearl Piston Chain is one of my favourite pieces from the collection and a reflection of what I appreciate in design and engineering. I like the play on masculinity and fragility, the pearl detail revealing itself on closer inspection.”
What can you tell us about the craftsmanship behind Traction?
RSG: Craftsmanship has always been integral to SARAH & SEBASTIAN and the majority of our designs are still exclusively produced in our Studio, including TRACTION.
The Pearl Piston Chain is an example of craft innovation in both form and function. Embedded with hand-selected pearls, each piston-inspired link is hand-assembled, taking up to eight hours to make a single necklace. It also features a bayonet clasp designed in-house that is interchangeable; you can mix and match the Pearl Piston chain and bracelet in gold or silver to customise or elongate your piece.
Which pieces from Traction are stand outs for you and why?
RSG: Definitely the Chase Ring, it is a sentimental piece that I have been wearing for years. Also, the Pearl Piston Bracelet. It is hard to pick favourites though, there is not a single piece in the collection I wouldn’t wear.
What are some of the challenges men face when it comes to jewellery and what pieces would you recommend for men who are hesitant to wear it?
RSG: I always found it more difficult to design for men. Women tend to celebrate new, expressive fashion and jewellery often, while men often tend to play it safe. However, the acceptance seems to ebb and flow and there are some leading examples of aspirational men in music, sports and media becoming more experimental; I like that this inspires more men to explore how they want to express themselves.
The best way, in my opinion, is to explore jewellery in person, perhaps with someone you trust for style advice, and to try on some pieces. See how it feels, start with something that feels good and build from there.
“Men often tend to play it safe [when it comes to jewellery], however, the acceptance seems to ebb and flow and there are some leading examples of aspirational men in music, sports and media becoming more experimental.”
How do you think men’s jewellery has evolved over the years in general and what do you hope for the future of this category?
RSG: How far back in history do you want to go? In ancient and historic times, jewellery was an expression of status and wealth. It has always been part of some subcultures to identify as part of a group. There have been periods where men's jewellery was more prominent in the mainstream and I strongly believe there is a place for any men to express themselves with Jewellery ongoing.
Where do you see the future of men’s jewellery for SARAH & SEBASTIAN? Will you continue to expand this category?
RSG: Men’s will be part of our range going forward and I am looking forward to designing our next men’s collection in 2024. It is definitely a growing category for us and I am excited to see how TRACTION is perceived and how we can build on it.
Discover TRACTION, the new men’s jewellery collection, here.
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